What makes buds dense

Green to test the technique. He applied the trick to one of his Night Queens and was positively surprised by the extreme amount of trichomes that the plant subsequently produced. In the case of Dr. Green, the buds did not grow significantly thicker, but they did produce more resin. The buds on the plant in question are also considerably more dense than those of the other plants.

Below you see on the left a bud that is not treated, and on the right one of the buds on which Dr. Green did apply the technique, the difference can be clearly seen. However, there are very effective ways to grow dense buds and put the disappointments behind you.

Lighting, feeding, pruning, training are the most common factors that can determine how your plants can grow the dense buds you desire. Plants require excellent and equal lighting to develop well while also getting fed with the right nutrients. They also need to be pruned at the necessary stages to grow well and be trained to grow at the same pace.

These factors are key to growing healthy buds. Meanwhile, in this article, we are going to extensively discuss how to grow dense buds indoors without any hiccups. There are many effective solutions available to help you grow dense buds indoors. Below, we will discuss the most important ones and how they can be effectively utilized to get the best out of your plants. Plants are suckers for light, especially when they are in the flowering stage.

Plants that get low light are not favored to produce much buds. The more the light, the bigger and denser the buds. However, too much light can be counterproductive and make buds develop badly and produce airy buds. Hence, it is very important that you can control your grow lights well and ensure they help your plants, not hurt them.

LED grow lights are very effective in achieving very dense buds. Depending on the model, you should be wary of keeping them too close to plants to prevent leaf and bud burn. On the other hand, HPS grow lights have the ideal color spectrum for quality flowering and consequently, impressive budding. They are both perfect for growing dense buds when used correctly. Meanwhile, when thinking about lights, also take the walls into consideration. Lost 1 to a very large, very excitable puppy.

Had to emergency transplant into clean soil. Getting worried though, ladies went to ground Do I just wait? Nonetheless, the posts are too brief for newbies. First grow White Widow. Plants were very nice and tall, smelled good Have all the right equip for indoor grow LED light nice growbooth good vents ect but cannibus was not any good Buds were loose.

Plants went for days. Can you help. Indoor grow ak fem. Started 6 wks ago germination, planted, growing wonderfully. Please let me know anything u recommend at this point. Thank you for your help. I do not advise you to spray liquids on your plants. This action can promote mold and other issues. I was just wondering how much direct sunlight is necessary for outdoor growing. My girls are positioned under large trees in the wild and only receive around 4 hrs direct light the rest dappled.

Also can I spray liquid nutrients directly onto the leaves and flowers or should they only be added when watering the soil? I have revegetated plants many times. Nothing new about that. I have done this up to 4 times.

So; Yes you can go another round if you wish. As far as your daylight experiment. I do not see where you will shorten a grow, without losing some yield. Good luck, and I invite you to join our Support Forum and post your experiments results. Happy Growing, lw. I just finished reading your Grow Bible and found it to be very informative. I have been a grower for many years using seeds and clones, I have also re-grown harvested plants to harvest a second time.

The potency seems to be the same for either harvest and the buds just as big and juicy. I have never tried to re-grow a third time, plant would be to squirrely I think. I would be interested in hearing what you think about doing that to a marijuana plant. My buddy is doing an experiment with light period, He built a programmable timer and he has changed the grow day from 24 hours, 20 hours on, 4 hours off, to 20 hours, 16 on, 4 off, we are finding out if marijuana knows the difference.

So far the plants seem to be doing fine and growing well, we will be going to a 12 on 8 off soon to make them flower. We are hoping we can shorten the grow time by 4 hours a day, over the total grow time we hope to pick up about hours Robert is the bomb….

If you are using common fertilizer; I recommend you get some and some Micro Nutrients. Phosphorous grows bigger roots. It has nothing to do with density. That comes from light and a good nutrient regimen, obtain Micro Nutrients.

They cost about 15 bucks. Of course it is. After that daylight decreases each day. This will induce flowering. You are in great shape. Hi Robert, First, thank you so much for your open sharing of all your vast knowledge. I am a medical mj patient in Colorado and have been growing outside for several years. Each year, my harvest improves with more knowledge. My problem is that because I live in Colorado, the air temperature is blisteringly hot in mid-summer. We have suffered with over 90 degrees for the past month, and no end in sight, and you said that heat can be a stressor that makes for airy buds.

Any other suggestions? If you think that might be the case, simply switch to a fertilizer that gives you a higher concentration of potassium.

During the vegetative stage we want our plants to form very tight internodes, especially under artificial lighting. By allowing the EC to drop below ideal during this stage we are wasting valuable space growing stem instead of bud. Most marijuana strains are happiest when grown at an EC of between 1. Try growing one of your plants using straight water for a week or so, you will see the internode length stretch dramatically compared to the ones on a regular fertilizer regime.

Hydroponic tomato growers sometimes will grow their transplants at extremely high EC's up to 6 EC! Please note that when doing this they use special nutrient formulas designed for this purpose, most of which have potassium to nitrogen ratios of , much higher than normal, as too much nitrate at this high an EC will easily damage a plant.

Try this formula if you're interested: calcium nitrate 7 grams, potassium nitrate 0. This is experimental! Do not try on all of your plants at once until you are sure your strain can handle it.

All of these ingredients should be available at your local hydroponics store, it is usually called "six pack formula". Be sure to bring your EC back down once you enter floral stage, by the time tufts of pistils are visible you want to be at your ideal EC of 1.

Try not to change the EC too quickly as a sharp drop can cause root damage. This also goes during your final flushing period when you want to eliminate all fertilizer from the medium?

When growing hydroponically, the only way of manipulating water availability is with the EC, while in soil we may also use the moisture level of the medium to the same ends. Many growers are under the mistaken impression that the EC and pH of their nutrient solution remains the same when applied to the soil.

This in not the case, and you must test the soil in order to have a true picture. To test your soil, take a sample from the center of the root zone at the side of the pot don't worry the torn roots will be fine.

Mix the soil with 2 equal parts distilled water and let sit for 20 minutes. Once the time is up take an EC reading and multiply this number by 2.

The pH should also be checked at this time. It is not feasible in soil to maintain an exact EC at all times, what we need to try and avoid is EC's climbing much above what we want and plants going for long periods with very low EC's. A frequent mistake marijuana growers make is over-emphasizing the need for a plant grown in soil to dry out completely between waterings. Cannabis does like dry feet but this simply means that the root zone must not be kept extremely wet at all times.

Keep in mind that if the soil has an EC of 1. As a general rule, during the vegetative stage you should keep your plants a little on the drier side as this will restrict cell elongation, creating a shorter noded plant structure capable of creating a dense bud cluster in the floral stage.

Unless of course you are using the high EC method described above, in this case you must not let your soil get too dry because of the increased fertilizer level you will create. As soon as early flowering begins you need to increase soil moisture to a nice evenly moist not soaked level to maximize bud expansion. Growing marijuana too dry during this stage will adversely affect your overall yield, as will having too high an EC in the medium.

Click to expand Darth Fader. Thx SOG, good read. Im thinking "super cropping" might help the buds be More Dense. I am newb though The HC. Sea Of Green said:. Pruning shade leaves to increase light reaching lower buds is not a wise choice.

You will never make up for the loss of production to the top of the plant from whatever may be gained on the lower part. The answer to that is to provide sufficient lighting to the lower buds, optimal reflectivity is the best way to get more light to the lower parts of the plant. Or just remove them from the plant why you would is another argument really, so I won't be addressing it here, but I don't recommend it either.

So you gain relatively little from doing anything except moving the source closer to the plant, or vise versa. Leaves serve a very important purpose in maintaining plant health and vigor. Buds are not going to efficiently feed themselves without them.

Never flush. Pre-harvest flushing is such a fat dense bud killer it's not even funny.